A Beautiful Coastal Drive
Door: Devils Uncle
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Paul
08 Maart 2011 | Australië, Apollo Bay
Wednesday morning, overcast and just around 20 degrees, a good moment to leave for Adelaide. Around 10:30 I got picked up by Peter and Delphine before heading of to pick up Noemie at Collingwood train station, which in the end became another station as she forgot to get out at Collingwood. So by 11:30 we were all packed and I really do mean packed to leave for the Great Ocean Road and Adelaide. Imagine a Nissan Pulsar (sedan) with 4 persons, 2 tents, 4 backpacks, a swag, a suitcase and then still the day packs to count. Noemie and Delphine were not able to see each other while talking. We already decided we should find a solution for this issue, after all it would be nice if everyone can see something along the road beside only rocks.
From Melbourne it takes about 2 hours to get to the Great Ocean Road and as we were pretty packed we decided to stretch our legs and have a lunch and short beach walk in Anglesea before heading to Lorne for our first bush camp. Just before pitching up our tents we heard some growling and as I’ve heard it before on a video my mum made 4 years ago at a wild life park in Tasmania I knew it was a koala. It did took us a while before we found it but we did find our first 2 koalas of the trip. Great funny furry animals I have to say and they remind me a bit of Gremlins. When we pitched up the tents we went back to Lorne to have a BBQ at the park near the beach and no we did not eat koala, although they say you can eat it. We did have some good sausages though. When arriving back at the camp ground we were a bit surprised as it suddenly was closed due to some regional burning (as in forest maintenance), as it was a bit to late to move from the camp ground we decided to stay, after all there was no note left at our tents. While we were walking towards the tents we almost got ran over by a koala as it wanted to cross the path we were walking. So our night started very well.
The next morning early up to be sure we didn’t get grilled and having our breakfast at the beach. And we still had a long day ahead of us. Still overcast, bit of blue spots in the skyline but not enough for saying the sun is shining. Just before leaving for Apollo Bay we went to Erskine Falls just outside Lorne and one of the many highlights along the Great Ocean Road. The road leading towards the car park was not suitable for trucks busses and cars with trailers due to a steep descent. Well, it’s probably not that bad, but before we arrived at the car park I started thinking: “When does this descent end?” The falls itself are really nice and due to the previous rain it was full enough to feel satisfied. To see the 20 meter drop in its full glory you have to walk down about 200 steps. Walking down is not a problem, but getting up is! Afterwards we stopped at Sheoak Falls which is as nice as the Erskine one, and here you have a more room to watch. By the time we arrived in Kenneth River we started to be hungry so we stopped for a quick snack. While watching from the kiosk we saw busses pull in and out all the time and you only had to see where loads of people are standing to know where the koalas are. It made us feel good having seen our own private one yesterday. Still took some pictures though, also from the birds and the ducks as anyone else did ignore those birds even though they were posing for them. Before we arrived in Apollo Bay we stopped at Cape Patton which has an excellent coastal view. When arriving in Apollo Bay we first had lunch before finding a solution for the packed car. We did find it in a set of straps to chunk some stuff on top of the car. A waterproof travel bag and a waterproof swag are very useful for such things. The Mariners Lookout, near Apollo Bay was the next stop. Great view, with overcast, so imagine how much greater it can be if you have a clear sky. Before we were heading for our second bush camp at Blanket Bay we stopped for a short forest walk at Maits Rest, where there are heaps of tall trees and apparently some carnivorous snails. Unfortunately we haven’t seen any. Some more koalas we did, which was on the way to Cape Otway close to our turnoff to Blanket Bay. Noemie was in a funny mood as she started to tickle one with a short twig, she was a bit afraid to touch him I think although I knew she wanted to. Nevertheless it was the closest one I’ve seen. At Cape Otway there is a historical lighthouse but I have to say I didn’t visit it as it was historical expensive to get even close to it. So we just went of to our bush camp. Just in time to find one of the last available spots. Peter decided to go for a swim, I planned to do it as well, but the water was a bit to cold so I just sat on the beach. After all the sun was still not shining. In the night I just saw a glimpse of a kangaroo hopping away and some possums.
Next day still no sun and after chunking the swag, the tents and the sleeping bags on the roof so Noemie and Delphine were able to see each other while talking we headed off to Lavers Hill for breakfast. And on our way out of Blanket Bay I got shocked. A car with Dutch registration plates (JA NEDERLANDS KENTEKEN!!! For the Dutch readers) was driving the opposite way. I can imagine people cycling all the way to Australia, but driving all the way? One the way to and after breakfast it rained so the waterproofness of the stuff on the roof were tested (and passed). So we continued our way towards to the most famous part on the Great Ocean Road, The Twelve Apostles. Just before the Apostles stopped at Gibson Steps for a short walk on the beach. The cliffs around this area remind me a bit of the cliffs at Dover, high and steep. One the beach we found some dead fairy penguins, probably smacked against the cliffs during high tide as the water covers the whole beach during these moments. The sea was rough so nice for pictures and after a few photo’s of the first of the Apostles I decided to take one from the waves up a small rock. I did focus a bit to much on the wave so by the time I realised it was getting close I was to late to get away and ending up with wet socks and shoes. From Gibson’s Steps it’s just a short drive to the Twelve Apostles, as in less than 1 km. It is an impressive view to see those rocks standing in the sea continuously being battered by the water. In 2005 one of the rocks collapsed, and I secretly hope one other did as well today just to see how powerful the water actually is. But none collapsed. A bit further one you have some other great places to visit of which some I actually liked more. Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge and the Grotto are impressive, Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands are just magnificent. The last one does look a bit of a car park for ships as it has a couple of bays that look like a car park bay. These last places are also the last few on the western side of the Great Ocean Road as you are pretty close to Warrnambool which is seen as the western point of the road. We had a quick stop at the supermarket to get ourselves some food for the night before heading west towards Narrawong where we decided to hire a cabin as we really wanted a nice shower.
Having had a good nights sleep we left Narrawong and headed for Cape Bridgewater to visit some blowholes and the Petrified Forrest, a group of rocks that look like a bunch of trees. Pretty fun to see. Delphine hoped to see a fur seal but didn’t see any, she was a bit impatient as just after she walked away I saw one swimming close to the shore. Due to the heavy wind it was impossible to call her back. But she’ll be in Australia long enough to see some later on I’m sure about that. We continued our way west towards Nelson for lunch and finish our fruit and fresh vegetables are law says it is illegal to take this across state borders due to possible fruit flies that can destroy crops. And guess what…our lunch was in bright clear sky. We left the bad weather at the Great Ocean Road. I did want to say we left it in Victoria, but as Nelson is just in this state that would have been a lie. Our next destination, Mount Gambier, is outside Victoria. It is in South Australia so by just crossing the border we travelled half an hour back in time due to the time zone. In Mount Gambier there are some volcanic lakes of which Blue Lake is one of the most impressive ones. I’ve never seen such blue water inland, and the unique about this lake is that it apparently turns grey in March only to turn blue again somewhere in September. It has something to do with the light shining into the lake. As we still had about 500km to Adelaide we continued driving and had a stop at Robe to stretch our legs and also to change driver (I drove as well a bit earlier this trip). Peter offered Noemie to drive for a while as she hadn’t done it for a long while. She did very well for about the 2 hours it took us past Kingston towards our last bush camp near Chinamen Wells and 42 Miles Beach in the Coorong National Park. After our dinner and spotting some wallabies Peter, Noemie and Delphine went to sleep while I decided to take the invite (for all of us) for a beer at our ‘neighbours’. It’s such typical Australian hospitality. The reason I did it was because one of the people turned out to be born in Velp near Grave (the Dutch people know where I’m talking about) but he moved with his parents to Australia in ’54 when he was only 4 years old. The other reason was that I wanted to enjoy the stars at night and it wasn’t dark enough yet when having the first drink. Unfortunately I didn’t get my camera working, still no idea why, but next time I’ll try again.
Sunday, Happy 25th Birthday Peter, so gifts and some Oreos with candles as a substitute for a cake for the birthday boy. He looked a bit surprised by it, so our plan had effect. Just around 10am we left the camp ground on our way to Adelaide. Along the way we only stopped near a pelican breeding island to see heaps of pelicans only a bit to far away to really being able to count them. But I did count 4 of them in the next town we passed through, Meningie. Just around 13:00 we arrived in Murray Bridge where we had our last lunch together and where we discussed our further plans, such accommodation, what to do later in the week and next destinations. Not all was clear so I postponed my decision where to stay after arriving in Adelaide, which was only 90 minutes left. Back in Adelaide, while at Hungry Jacks (Burger King it is), we transferred photo’s and checked some options later in the week as well some accommodation. I decided to return to the Cannon Street Backpackers, Delphine had a couch surf spot and Peter and Noemie waited for a place to go after they would meet the Dutch girls Peter had contact with regarding possible travelling onwards towards to Perth. So about 5 days and 1300km later we did go our own ways again, but did agree to get a beer later in the week before us all go different ways.
Noemie, Peter and Delphine, if you read this. You all were great company.
https://picasaweb.google.com/paulvanderwielen/ABeautifulCoastalDrive#
From Melbourne it takes about 2 hours to get to the Great Ocean Road and as we were pretty packed we decided to stretch our legs and have a lunch and short beach walk in Anglesea before heading to Lorne for our first bush camp. Just before pitching up our tents we heard some growling and as I’ve heard it before on a video my mum made 4 years ago at a wild life park in Tasmania I knew it was a koala. It did took us a while before we found it but we did find our first 2 koalas of the trip. Great funny furry animals I have to say and they remind me a bit of Gremlins. When we pitched up the tents we went back to Lorne to have a BBQ at the park near the beach and no we did not eat koala, although they say you can eat it. We did have some good sausages though. When arriving back at the camp ground we were a bit surprised as it suddenly was closed due to some regional burning (as in forest maintenance), as it was a bit to late to move from the camp ground we decided to stay, after all there was no note left at our tents. While we were walking towards the tents we almost got ran over by a koala as it wanted to cross the path we were walking. So our night started very well.
The next morning early up to be sure we didn’t get grilled and having our breakfast at the beach. And we still had a long day ahead of us. Still overcast, bit of blue spots in the skyline but not enough for saying the sun is shining. Just before leaving for Apollo Bay we went to Erskine Falls just outside Lorne and one of the many highlights along the Great Ocean Road. The road leading towards the car park was not suitable for trucks busses and cars with trailers due to a steep descent. Well, it’s probably not that bad, but before we arrived at the car park I started thinking: “When does this descent end?” The falls itself are really nice and due to the previous rain it was full enough to feel satisfied. To see the 20 meter drop in its full glory you have to walk down about 200 steps. Walking down is not a problem, but getting up is! Afterwards we stopped at Sheoak Falls which is as nice as the Erskine one, and here you have a more room to watch. By the time we arrived in Kenneth River we started to be hungry so we stopped for a quick snack. While watching from the kiosk we saw busses pull in and out all the time and you only had to see where loads of people are standing to know where the koalas are. It made us feel good having seen our own private one yesterday. Still took some pictures though, also from the birds and the ducks as anyone else did ignore those birds even though they were posing for them. Before we arrived in Apollo Bay we stopped at Cape Patton which has an excellent coastal view. When arriving in Apollo Bay we first had lunch before finding a solution for the packed car. We did find it in a set of straps to chunk some stuff on top of the car. A waterproof travel bag and a waterproof swag are very useful for such things. The Mariners Lookout, near Apollo Bay was the next stop. Great view, with overcast, so imagine how much greater it can be if you have a clear sky. Before we were heading for our second bush camp at Blanket Bay we stopped for a short forest walk at Maits Rest, where there are heaps of tall trees and apparently some carnivorous snails. Unfortunately we haven’t seen any. Some more koalas we did, which was on the way to Cape Otway close to our turnoff to Blanket Bay. Noemie was in a funny mood as she started to tickle one with a short twig, she was a bit afraid to touch him I think although I knew she wanted to. Nevertheless it was the closest one I’ve seen. At Cape Otway there is a historical lighthouse but I have to say I didn’t visit it as it was historical expensive to get even close to it. So we just went of to our bush camp. Just in time to find one of the last available spots. Peter decided to go for a swim, I planned to do it as well, but the water was a bit to cold so I just sat on the beach. After all the sun was still not shining. In the night I just saw a glimpse of a kangaroo hopping away and some possums.
Next day still no sun and after chunking the swag, the tents and the sleeping bags on the roof so Noemie and Delphine were able to see each other while talking we headed off to Lavers Hill for breakfast. And on our way out of Blanket Bay I got shocked. A car with Dutch registration plates (JA NEDERLANDS KENTEKEN!!! For the Dutch readers) was driving the opposite way. I can imagine people cycling all the way to Australia, but driving all the way? One the way to and after breakfast it rained so the waterproofness of the stuff on the roof were tested (and passed). So we continued our way towards to the most famous part on the Great Ocean Road, The Twelve Apostles. Just before the Apostles stopped at Gibson Steps for a short walk on the beach. The cliffs around this area remind me a bit of the cliffs at Dover, high and steep. One the beach we found some dead fairy penguins, probably smacked against the cliffs during high tide as the water covers the whole beach during these moments. The sea was rough so nice for pictures and after a few photo’s of the first of the Apostles I decided to take one from the waves up a small rock. I did focus a bit to much on the wave so by the time I realised it was getting close I was to late to get away and ending up with wet socks and shoes. From Gibson’s Steps it’s just a short drive to the Twelve Apostles, as in less than 1 km. It is an impressive view to see those rocks standing in the sea continuously being battered by the water. In 2005 one of the rocks collapsed, and I secretly hope one other did as well today just to see how powerful the water actually is. But none collapsed. A bit further one you have some other great places to visit of which some I actually liked more. Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge and the Grotto are impressive, Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands are just magnificent. The last one does look a bit of a car park for ships as it has a couple of bays that look like a car park bay. These last places are also the last few on the western side of the Great Ocean Road as you are pretty close to Warrnambool which is seen as the western point of the road. We had a quick stop at the supermarket to get ourselves some food for the night before heading west towards Narrawong where we decided to hire a cabin as we really wanted a nice shower.
Having had a good nights sleep we left Narrawong and headed for Cape Bridgewater to visit some blowholes and the Petrified Forrest, a group of rocks that look like a bunch of trees. Pretty fun to see. Delphine hoped to see a fur seal but didn’t see any, she was a bit impatient as just after she walked away I saw one swimming close to the shore. Due to the heavy wind it was impossible to call her back. But she’ll be in Australia long enough to see some later on I’m sure about that. We continued our way west towards Nelson for lunch and finish our fruit and fresh vegetables are law says it is illegal to take this across state borders due to possible fruit flies that can destroy crops. And guess what…our lunch was in bright clear sky. We left the bad weather at the Great Ocean Road. I did want to say we left it in Victoria, but as Nelson is just in this state that would have been a lie. Our next destination, Mount Gambier, is outside Victoria. It is in South Australia so by just crossing the border we travelled half an hour back in time due to the time zone. In Mount Gambier there are some volcanic lakes of which Blue Lake is one of the most impressive ones. I’ve never seen such blue water inland, and the unique about this lake is that it apparently turns grey in March only to turn blue again somewhere in September. It has something to do with the light shining into the lake. As we still had about 500km to Adelaide we continued driving and had a stop at Robe to stretch our legs and also to change driver (I drove as well a bit earlier this trip). Peter offered Noemie to drive for a while as she hadn’t done it for a long while. She did very well for about the 2 hours it took us past Kingston towards our last bush camp near Chinamen Wells and 42 Miles Beach in the Coorong National Park. After our dinner and spotting some wallabies Peter, Noemie and Delphine went to sleep while I decided to take the invite (for all of us) for a beer at our ‘neighbours’. It’s such typical Australian hospitality. The reason I did it was because one of the people turned out to be born in Velp near Grave (the Dutch people know where I’m talking about) but he moved with his parents to Australia in ’54 when he was only 4 years old. The other reason was that I wanted to enjoy the stars at night and it wasn’t dark enough yet when having the first drink. Unfortunately I didn’t get my camera working, still no idea why, but next time I’ll try again.
Sunday, Happy 25th Birthday Peter, so gifts and some Oreos with candles as a substitute for a cake for the birthday boy. He looked a bit surprised by it, so our plan had effect. Just around 10am we left the camp ground on our way to Adelaide. Along the way we only stopped near a pelican breeding island to see heaps of pelicans only a bit to far away to really being able to count them. But I did count 4 of them in the next town we passed through, Meningie. Just around 13:00 we arrived in Murray Bridge where we had our last lunch together and where we discussed our further plans, such accommodation, what to do later in the week and next destinations. Not all was clear so I postponed my decision where to stay after arriving in Adelaide, which was only 90 minutes left. Back in Adelaide, while at Hungry Jacks (Burger King it is), we transferred photo’s and checked some options later in the week as well some accommodation. I decided to return to the Cannon Street Backpackers, Delphine had a couch surf spot and Peter and Noemie waited for a place to go after they would meet the Dutch girls Peter had contact with regarding possible travelling onwards towards to Perth. So about 5 days and 1300km later we did go our own ways again, but did agree to get a beer later in the week before us all go different ways.
Noemie, Peter and Delphine, if you read this. You all were great company.
https://picasaweb.google.com/paulvanderwielen/ABeautifulCoastalDrive#
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